Goose Hunting | 10 Tips for Goose Hunters

Goose-Hunting-Tips

Unfortunately, when hunting on public lands can get crowded and you’ll be limited and might not receive the very best spot. When you’ve decided what you would like to collect, start hunting! Your goose hunting is finished. Goose hunting is a good time for young and old dogs to acquire experience and have a little fun.

Goose Hunting Tips

1. The Most Effective Way to Set Out Goose Decoys

Veteran Maryland call-maker Sean Mann leads early season duck hunting and goose hunting in Alberta and is one of the most successful and experienced in the business. He informed Wade Bourne from DU, in a tip for the DU Website: To finish more geese when hunting over a field spread, set decoys 10 feet apart (3 long steps), and face them in random directions. This set provides a natural, relaxed look, and it also offers incoming birds plenty of landing room inside the spread. By setting my decoys so far apart, I use half the number I used to. I can set up and tear down faster, and most of all, the geese work better. Our hunts are much more productive than when I set decoys closer together. Less really can be more.

2. How to Change Your Luck with Snow Geese

In the October ’08 Field & Stream, author Dave Hurteau, in an interview with veteran guide Tracy Northup, Up North Outdoors, hunts up north, presents a deadly method for changing your luck with those tough, high-flying flocks of snow geese. In a tip called, “Play the Wind,” Northup says. “Snow geese typically fly high and circle straight down, making it difficult to shoot them anywhere but right over a good spread. But a 30–40 mph wind keeps them flying nice and low.” Northup recommends scouting out a location of snows where there are ditches or hedgerows a hundred yards or so from the fields where you can sneak into position to pick off the low-flying snows as they pass—without spooking the main flock.

3. Birds in Flight: Looks Are Deceiving

Because they are big, Canada Geese appear to be slow in flight, compared to ducks. And because of their long tails, pheasants appear to be slower than they really are. Swing your gun properly, lead the bird, and keep swinging as you pull the trigger. Or you’ll be shaking your head, wondering how you missed.

4. Snow Geese: Playing the Numbers Game

Those large flocks of snow geese weaving across the horizon,   clamoring constantly, are hard to pull into normal decoy spreads of just two- or three- dozen birds. The flying geese can see great distances, and they are looking for big groups of feeding birds. Savvy hunters have learned to cope with this by putting out decoys by the hundreds, if necessary, and to do this they’ll use all the silhouettes they can haul to the site, plus whatever “rage-type”  decoys they can fashion themselves from things like baby diapers and white garbage bags attached to a stake.

5. Layout Blinds Take Getting Used To

When using a layout blind, before the birds start flying take some time to try practicing the move it takes to rise into a shooting position. It takes some getting used to. If you don’t practice it, you may not be in a good position with your face well down on the gun during the first critical seconds when it’s time to, take ’em!

6. When the Canadas Sleep Late

In below-zero weather, sleep in an extra hour or two.  When it’s that cold Canadas will stay roosted and fly out to feed only after the sun has come up and warmed things up a bit. It might be 10 AM before they leave the roost. The only thing you’ll get by showing up at dawn is cold.

7. Keep Those Silhouettes Visible

When using silhouette decoys for geese, take care to position them so many of them appear broadside at every angle. When edge-on to the viewpoint of the flying birds, they become invisible.

8. Layout Blinds: You are Part of the Action

You’re lying in a field, totally hidden right among the decoys. No brushy blind, no boat, no pit blind, no elaborate box blind, no blind on stilts. As an alternative, you are placed comfortably into a well-camouflaged layout blind, made more invisible by attaching the brush to the blind’s convenient straps and holders. You’re wearing camo yourself, including a hat and mask. Even your gun is camouflaged. Unlike hunting from a brush blind where you have to keep your face down—and thereby miss part of the spectacle of flying birds on the way in—you’re seeing the whole show, from the time birds, appear in the distance until they coming right into your face. There’s nothing like it!

9. Hiding Your Boat in Plain Sight

The john-boat or canoe you can put into the water and go wherever the ducks and geese are flying has gotten a lot easier to hide with the introduction of today’s synthetic camo material. The material, imitating different shades and textures of marsh grass, comes in manageable mats you can attach to your boat, then roll up and put away after your hunt.  Cabela’s, has a bunch of different patterns, including the excellent Avery, and there’s a popular one called Fast-Grass that’s available at the Knutson’s waterfowling store and site.

10. Don’t Let Those Incoming Geese Fool You

The approach of wild geese to a blind is one of the neatest optical illusions in nature. The geese just keep on coming. You think they are one hundred yards away, and they are two hundred. You think they are fifty yards away, and they are one hundred.

Duck Hunting Tips | Few Old Tricks That Still Work

Wind-nd-Your-DecoySetups

The truth is that you can spread your duck decoys just about any way you wish, as long as you leave an open area for the birds to land into the wind. No matter which way they come from, or how much they circle, their final move down will be into the wind. No wind at all? It becomes a guessing game.

Duck Hunting | Wind and Your Decoy Setups

Here are a few of the editor’s favorite Duck Hunting guides that have been submitted by Hunting Guide from across the nation.

Duck Hunting Guide’s Advice I Don’t Want to Hear

In the duck blind, you’ll often hear your guide urge you to, “Stay down. Keep your head down. Don’t watch the birds! I’ll do the watching.” Well, if you’re not watching the birds, you’re losing part of the joys of the hunt. Your blind should be good enough for you to peer through the stalks or brush just as the guide is doing. When the ducks are passing right overhead, neither one of you should be looking skyward. You’ll spook the birds for sure.

Duck Hunting Tips

Pothole Sneak Attack

If you’ve scouted out a promising pothole or small pond and you’re planning to jump-shoot the ducks that are resting there, try to sneak up on them with the wind at your back.  When the ducks jump into the wind (which they most certainly will do), you might get a shot before they re-orient themselves and fly the other way.

Local Birds: Use Small Decoy Spreads for Small Bunches

Make a distinction between the resident ducks you hunt in the early season and the large flocks that migrate in later on. You’ll spot resident birds in pairs and small flocks, so decoy them accordingly and don’t burn out any one place by hunting it too often. Save the big spreads for when the birds from up north show up.

Mix ’Em up If You Want To

So you’re thinking about adding some bluebills or canvasbacks (diving ducks) to your decoy setup of mallards, pintails, and gadwalls (puddle ducks) to give your spread more visibility. Go right ahead. It won’t hurt your chances a bit.

Jump-Shooting Joys

Jump-shooting ducks from a canoe or john-boat is a great way to hunt some creeks and small rivers. The best way is with a partner, one hunter with the gun at the ready, the other on the paddling. Stay quiet; anticipate the sharp bends where you may surprise a few mallards, blacks, or other puddle ducks. Listen carefully as you go. You just might hear the birds before you get to them.

Too Hidden for a Good Shot

When you’re hunkered down in a blind so that you can’t see the ducks you’re working, when it comes time for someone to exclaim, “Take ’em!” you come up with your gun and have to find the birds before you get down to pointing and swinging the barrel. It won’t be an easy shot.

Gloves for Setting out Decoys

Gloves that stretch almost to your elbows and keep your hands dry are a must for setting out decoys. Shuck ’em off and wear your regular gloves when you get into the blind. See the “Midwest PVC Decoy Glove” at Mack’s Prairie Wings, www.mackspw.com. Check other favorite waterfowl gear vendors for other options.

Pond Shooting at Sunset: The Way It Used to Be

Waiting for ducks at sunset beside ponds where the ducks would be coming to roost was once a mainstay of hunting tactics. Local wood ducks, mallards, and black ducks, puddle ducks of all sorts that had migrated into a particular area— they all come hurtling into the ponds after sunset. Sometimes the shooting was so late, the birds had to be outlined against the western sky. Today, shooters who try this are easy marks for wardens waiting nearby to hear the sounds of gunshots after legal shooting hours. If you want to just watch the show (and you should!) leave your guns in the truck.

It’s All about Visibility, Visibility, Visibility

Unless you’re gunning a tiny creek-bottom or river location, surrounded by high trees, most of your duck-hunting locations will be in open areas where you hope passing birds can see your decoys and come on in.  Anything you can do to increase the visibility of your spread will make a difference. Black decoys show up better from a distance. Magnum-size adds visibility. Canada geese decoys add visibility, whether you’re hunting geese or not. Movement devices (the ones that are legal where you hunt) are critical if there’s no wind blowing:  spinners, battery-driven shakers, pull-cord movers—whatever you’ve got.

The “Hole” Is the Thing

No matter what shape of the decoy spread you decide is right for your hunting location and conditions, it must contain a hole or two for the birds to land. If the water in front of the blind is solid with decoys, the birds will land on the outside of the spread, at long range or even out of range.

The Outer Gun: The Key Position

The Outside shooter on the upwind side of permanent duck blinds or layout blind setups is in the key position and can absolutely ruin the shooting for everybody with him. It’s happened to me more times than I can remember. The ducks, or geese, are coming into the spread against the wind, from his side. If he starts shooting too early, around the corner, the guns in the center and another side will get no shots or shots at widely flaring birds only. Sometimes, to top off this little drama, the outside offender will turn to the other guys and say, “Why didn’t you guys shoot?” Advice: Put an experienced shooter in that outside position, a shooter with the judgment and nerve to wait until the birds are into the spread enough so everybody can shoot.

Where’d the Mallards Go?

When you’re on a marsh in the early morning where you reasonably expect a flight of mallards, don’t be surprised if they don’t show up until later in the morning. Your local birds or even visitors from the north, maybe feeding in the fields.

Black Ducks—Red Letter Day

My calling aspirations reached a sort of pinnacle years later. I was hunkered on an icy creek on the marshes of the   Chesapeake   Bay, near the famous Susquehanna Flats. A pair of black ducks flew down the creek, very high and in a big hurry, headed somewhere with express tickets.  They clearly were not interested in my modest decoy spread, but when I hit them with my old Herter’s call and the Highball, they turned like I had ’em wired.  Interested then, they circled warily while I scrunched down. Now I started rattling off my Feeding Chuckle, and a few moments later they were cupped and committed.  I could finally say that I knew how to call ducks.

Where the Birds Want to Be

Pushing into a cove in the marsh or along a big river or lake, in the first pre-dawn light, you flush a big bunch of ducks or geese. Away they go, gabbling and honking. Never mind trying to follow them or heading for another spot. Set up right there. It’s the place the birds want to be.

Take ‘Em!

Few moments afield are as thrilling as those when a big flock of ducks sweeps into your decoys. You’ll shoot a lot better when you are aware whether your birds are diving ducks—like bluebills and canvasbacks—or puddle ducks—like mallards and pintails. Diving ducks will bore straight past when the shooting starts, while puddle ducks will bounce skyward as though launched from a trampoline.

Tall-Timber Trick

When gunning the hole in the tall timber with a few decoys out, give the water around your tree a good kick when birds are passing or circling to imitate splashing and feeding activity.

Using the Wind with Your Decoy Spread

Ducks often want to land outside a spread of decoys—even when the setup has left an inviting hole.  That ’s why you want to set your decoys upwind—not directly in front of the blind—so that you’ll still have a good shot at the birds coming in against the wind and trying to land on the outside of the decoy spread.

Don’t Be a “Skybuster”

A Skybuster is the most hated character on any marsh or field where there’s duck or goose hunting.  The Skybuster burns away at birds that are obviously out of range, thereby alarming the birds away from the region and ruining probabilities others might have had on the incoming birds.

Beating the Crowds in Public Hunting

Ducks swiftly wise up to blinds on open hunting regions. You score more ducks if you seek out remote corners that see much less pressure. Use just 6 or so decoys and call only sufficient to get passing birds’ attention.

Hunting Tips | Caribou Hunting Guide

Caribou-Reindeer

Some caribou migrates more than 3,000 miles each year—farther than any other land animal. They travel in herds every fall and spring from their wintering to their calving grounds and arrive just in time to think about heading back.

Caribou Reindeer

Multi-Purpose Hooves

It’s hooves are wide, concave, and act like snowshoes, distributing the animal’s weight on snow, ice, and melted muskeg. These hooves also work like paddles when it needs to swim across fast-flowing rivers or even large lakes.  But they don’t slow the animals down.  It has been recorded running faster than 50 miles per hour.

Caribou Never Stop Moving

This is not the wiliest game animals a man can hunt, but that doesn’t make them easy prey. First, you have to find them. Then you have to decide whether or not to wait to shoot a trophy. You can’t pattern this because it never stays in one place. The herd you’re stalking today might be miles and miles away from the next. If you see a bull you like, pull the trigger, because you never know what tomorrow will bring.

Bring the Right Optics

Unless you’re a bush pilot, the hardest part of hunting caribou will be finding the herd. Bring high-power binoculars (at least 10 × 42) and carry a spotting scope. Make sure to use top-quality glass or you’ll lose your ability to hunt during the morning and evening hours.

Don’t Spook the Herd

When you’re sneaking up on a bull, keep track of another caribou. They seem to float in from nowhere just when you want to move. Though caribou won’t get away like a whitetail buck when you surprise them at a distance, they will jog off and take another caribou with them. Then you have two options: Stay put and hope they stop so that you can stalk them again, or run after them. In my experience, spooked caribou seldom give you an easy second hunt.

How to Field-Judge an Antlers

When trying to guess the length of a caribou’s antlers, use the animal’s shoulder as a measuring stick. Most shoulders will be between 48 and 54 inches high. Look for antlers with curved main beams, which will generally be both longer and wider than straight ones (though they may look shorter from the side). A trophy animal’s shovels will be broad, have multiple points, and extend far out over the muzzle. Kicker points, the spikes that grow off the back of a caribou’s antlers, will add to the score, as will palmation and extra points at the tops.

How to Read a Caribou’s Body Language

When it’s not distressed, they walk quite gradually, expanding the head forward and downward. When alarmed, it performs a special behavior to warn another caribou of danger. They’ll do this if a predator gets too close, but isn’t about to catch them (or after they figure out that you’re a person sitting on a rock). The troubled caribou will run with the head held high and parallel to the land, and the small, generally floppy tail held up in the air.

A Good Gun for Caribou

While a good shot won’t need more than a .270 to take down a thin-skinned animal like a caribou, the animals are much larger-bodied than most whitetail deer. It can help to shoot a bigger gun when you’re reaching out to knock one down at the long ranges you’ll often find when hunting in the tundra. One great caribou cartridge is the .338 Win Mag.  Loaded with a 200-grain bullet, the cartridge will hit three inches high at 100 yards. Elmer Keith loved this chambering for both caribou and elk, and you will, too.

Winterize Your Caribou Gun

Always make sure to keep your gun clean, moisture-free, and either grease-free or treated with synthetic lube designed to function in extreme freezing temperatures. The last thing you want when firing your rifle at a caribou after a long, freezing, late-season stalk is for the hammer, firing pin, or trigger to malfunction because your gun’s oil congealed in the cold.

Don’t Put Wet Bullets into a Freezing-Cold Rifle

Always carefully clean any cartridges you’ve dropped on the ground if you’re hunting in the far north during the late season. They make pick up moisture that causes them to freeze to the inside your gun’s chamber, reducing your expensive rifle to a single-shot firearm.

Sleeping Bag for Hunters | Buying Guide

Cheap-Sleeping-Bag

A good Sleeping Bag Can Make All the Difference In a hunting campaign, sleeping bag is your last line of defense against anything Mother Nature can throw at you, so choose carefully! Without a good night’s sleep, you won’t be able to function to your fullest, and in a hunting situation, that could prove costly.

Sleeping Bag
Best Sleeping Bag Buying Guide

With dozens of variations available today, choose a sleeping bag based on durability and the type of environment you will be staying in as well as certain conditions based on your own personal requirements, including temperature preferences, the thickness of material and the overall weight of the bag when traveling.

Choosing the right sleeping bag for you and your family members is an important decision when selecting hunting gear. Waking up in the middle of the night all wet and shivering is not the time to realize you made the wrong choice!

 

1. ELITE SURVIVAL SYSTEMS

Model: Recon 5

Key Features: Designed to keep you comfortable in extremely cold conditions, down to -20 degrees Celsius (-4 degrees Fahrenheit)

Description: The Recon 5 is your ultimate cold-climate sleeping bag. Created using 210T ripstop nylon with a [amazon_link asins=’B06WRSP56Y’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’70ef0cc7-5d88-11e8-a8ee-43830abc3f48′]Teflon finish and 300 grams per square meter of insulation for ultimate warmth, the Recon offers intense cold protection and durability to withstand even the harshest environments. It features bonded seams, anti-snag zipper with a Velcro tab closure and a heavy-duty No. 8 spiral zipper with storm flap. Enjoy the shaped hood for added comfort and the internal PDA/phone pocket for your electronic conveniences.

 

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Manufacturer’s Comments: “With sizes available to withstand temperatures to -4 degrees Fahrenheit (- 20 degrees Celsius), the Recon line of sleeping bags [is] among the smallest, lightest-weight bags on the market. Their rugged durability and compact size make them a perfect addition to any survival checklist.”

—BRYAN BOGUE, PRESIDENT

 

2. BLIZZARD PROTECTION SYSTEMS LTD.

Model: Blizzard Survival Bag

Key Features: 100% water and windproof; compact and lightweight; reusable

Description: The Blizzard Survival Bag is considered standard equipment for many military and emergency [amazon_link asins=’B006BBW15O’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’88a59bbe-5d88-11e8-9189-4579b642a726′]services. It’s revolutionary design supply’s thermal protection in any situation where people need to be kept warm. Its compact carrying design makes it ideal for use by hikers, campers or survivalists, who all need to travel light yet need protection from the blistering cold during the night.

The Blizzard Survival Bag is reusable, weighs less than a pound and is available in multi-color like silver, orange or green.

 

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Manufacturer’s Comments: “Our Blizzard Survival Bags were invented by an avid hiker in Wales, have saved countless lives in militaries worldwide and are compact, lightweight and simple enough to be used by any outdoor enthusiast. Our specially designed Reflexcell material and quality construction set us apart from any other hypothermia protection gear on the market, and our clients experience the difference.”

—DEE WILLIAMS, DIRECTOR OF GOVERNMENT SALES

 

3. EDDIE BAUER

Model: Unisex-Adult Airbender

Key Features: Large size for comfort; no chill, down, baffle-box construction

Description: The Unisex-Adult Airbender Sleeping Bag is the perfect bag for outdoor activities from springtime to [amazon_link asins=’B00IBJOXDW’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’ad2023b5-5d88-11e8-9f0e-23e8df8455f5′]late fall. Its rectangular, plush, down design offers you plenty of room and coziness while keeping you warm at temperatures down to +20 degrees Fahrenheit. Filled with premium goose down with protective polyester taffeta, the Unisex-Adult Airbender is durable without sacrificing comfort. YKK-patented zippers ensure smooth and durable closure. It is machine washable and comes complete with stuff-and-storage sacks.

 

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Manufacturer’s Comments: “The Unisex Series of sleeping bags has well over 60 years of history at Eddie Bauer. Eddie created this high-quality line of sleeping bags to address the needs of the market not looking to explore the highest peaks of the world but still wanted the quality and comfort that is the reputation of Eddie Bauer down sleeping bags. The Unisex-Adult Airbender is 3 pounds, 13 ounces, and is a fantastic choice for the person looking for the comfort of a rectangular sleeping bag that can be used at the early spring or fall campsite, the backyard or the for the field. Filled with premium grey goose down, the combination of the baffle box

and horizontal interior baffle construction keeps even distribution of the down across the bag and maximizes loft for perfect warmth to 20 degrees outside temperatures.”

—JACK MANNON, PUBLIC RELATIONS SPECIALIST

 

4. SELK’BAG

Model: Adult Lite 5G

Key Features: Innovative sleep/wear system, multiple adjusting points, cold- weather usage

Description: The Adult Lite 5G is the most technically advanced model of sleepwear ever created by Selk’bag. It is [amazon_link asins=’B015GEU1V2′ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’2265ce3e-5d89-11e8-a48a-41dfa4df5f25′]essentially a sleeping bag that allows the user mobility and comfort when out in harsh environments. Padded with the Krekran insulating material, the Adult Lite 5G can withstand cold temperatures while keeping you warm and toasty inside. Adjustable hood and arm straps conform to your particular body type. Removable booties, which double as a pillow when zipped together, allow you to wear your own footwear while in the suit. New quick-release hand closures allow fast hand entry and exit.

 

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Manufacturer’s Comments: The Patagon is our most technical product of the Selk’bag family so far and, most importantly, features removable booties so you can wear your own boots or shoes, making it ideal for a ‘ready to go’ type of sleeping bag.”

—CRISTOBAL MURILLO, CO-OWNER

 

5. BIG AGNES

Model: Boot Jack

Key Features: Water-repellent down; anti-microbial and anti-bacterial insulation

Description: The Boot Jack takes a traditional mummy-style sleeping bag and gives it a technical face-lift. This old [amazon_link asins=’B019QQUIZU’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’41f0c175-5d89-11e8-992b-25c9fd785a87′]school-style bag repels water using DownTek water repellent down while maintaining insulation value, loft, and breathability. It features a no-draft collar seal to keep cold air from entering as well as insulation between the bag and pad and along the length of the zipper to keep you warm and dry during the night. Connect a partner’s bag to yours with ease to create a dual-sleeping chamber. Interior fabric loops hold your sleeping bag liner secure and in place. Storage sack and nylon stuff sack included.

 

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Manufacturer’s Comments: The Boot Jack is a warm and lightweight sleeping bag that features DownTek water- repellent down and Insotect Flow vertical baffles to help body heat travel from the core to the extremities for more efficient and even thermoregulation.”

—CARL JOHNSON, PR ACCOUNT MANAGER

 

6. HIGH PEAK USA

Model: Kodiak 20

Key Features: Windshield and thermal collar; dual-bag connection; rating to 20 degrees Fahrenheit

Description: Affordability and comfort are combined to create the Kodiak 20. This traditional rectangular bag [amazon_link asins=’B071G5V2QC’ template=’ProductAd’ store=hg02jc-20” marketplace=’US’ link_id=’5b1e86fa-5d89-11e8-8c9a-3ffa776301a1′]keeps you cozy down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit while providing a windshield and thermal collar to avoid getting chilled from unavoidable wind gusts. A convenient hood with drawstring closures and the ability to join with a second bag make the Kodiak 20 perfect for a weekend getaway for two without breaking the bank.

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Vendor’s Comments: The High Peak Kodiak 20 is rated for 20 degrees and ultimately designed for your comfort. This sleeping bag has a puffy, rectangular bag, is constructed with a Dura Fiber H1 insulation and has a polyester ripstop shell. The inside liner has 100-percent cotton flannel. This bag can also be zipped together with another sleeping bag.”

 —AARON CURLEY, MARKETING MANAGER

 

Before Pig Hunting | Ultimate Beginner’s Guide

Wild-vs.-Feral

Before Pig hunting, we are sharing one thing with you. Although hog tracks and deer tracks can be the same size, it is not difficult to tell them apart once you know what to look for. Hog tracks are blockier than deer tracks and have rounded rather than pointed tips. Deer tracks are teardrop shaped; hog tracks are square in both front and back and have a more uniform width.

Now let’s move to the point and here is a little guide for you. Just read it and get a bit knowledge to hunting pig.

Hunt Small Herds to Find Unpressured Pigs

If you know there are pigs in the area you’re hunting but find only minimal amounts of the sign, do not get discouraged. Smaller herds of pigs can be more predictable (and thus easier to hunt) because they are generally less pressured than larger groups, whose obvious trails and numerous wallows attract many more hunters.

Wild vs. Feral

Very few of the hogs in North America are truly wild—most are descended from domestic pigs and should be referred to as feral. A true Russian wild boar has a much longer nose and legs than a hog descended from domestic stock, it will have a pronounced ridge of hair running down the center of its back, and its tail will be straight.

Pig Hunting | Wild vs. Feral

Shoot to Kill Quickly When Hunting Hogs

A hog’s vital organs are located lower in its body cavity that is vital organs in the body cavities of ungulates.  To ensure a killing shot, always aim directly behind the shoulder as well as slightly lower than you would aim at a white-tailed deer. Be very sure of your shot before pulling the trigger or releasing your arrow. You do not want to have to follow one far after hitting it; hogs have a thick layer of fat beneath their skin that can quickly plug a wound, making blood trailing difficult, especially if you shoot the animal in a wet,   swampy environment.

Spot-and-Stalk Hogs in Open Country

In the fairly open country, spotting wild pigs from a distance and then stalking them can be an effective method. Start out by trying to situate yourself you where you have a commanding view and the wind is coming toward you. If pigs are seen at a distance, walk slowly and quietly toward them, keeping the wind in your face and using available cover. Since natural pigs have poor eyesight, you may be able to obtain fairly close without being identified.

Look for Thickets to Find Bedded Pigs

Wherever you hunt pigs, you can be confident that they’ll spend their days holed up in the thickest vegetation to be found. Look for palmetto thickets in swampy bottomland, laurel tangles in the mountains, and grown-over clear cuts in a forested country that is near a good source of food, such as an old orchard or grove of acorn-producing oaks. Set up your stand on trails that lead from their bedding cover to where they eat and make sure you’re sitting in it long enough for the scent you left on the way in to disperse by the time they head out to feed in the evening.

Look for Thickets to Find Bedded Pigs

Here He Comes!

When a wild boar means mischief, he makes his run with his head down. It is by a sudden thrust upward of his tusks that he does his deadly work.  When he charges with his head high, he probably means that he just wants gangway.

Look for Wallows When Scouting for Hogs

Wallows are muddy or dusty patches of ground where pigs roll to cool themselves off, remove parasites attached to their skin, and cover themselves in the dirt to keep off biting insects. These are great places to look for when scouting because you can use them to identify the sizes and numbers of animals in a herd. Tracks are easy to find in such places, and you can get an accurate read on a hog’s size by measuring the imprints left by its body in the mud.

Wild Boars: What You’re Hunting

Wild boars in America are a mixture of feral (born wild) pigs from domesticated stock running loose in the woods for decades,  even centuries,  and of original European wild boars brought into this country and planted at different locations. One of the main plantings was by a man named George Moore who in 1912 put fourteen European wild boars on his 1600 acres of timbered land surrounding Harper’s Bald, a mountain peak in the Snowbird Mountain Range of North Carolina. Moore thought of his land as a preserve, but, of course, the hogs roamed into the countryside and have been there for decades, plus spreading elsewhere in the Great Smokies. The pure European wild boars have also been imported in places ranging from New Hampshire to California to Georgia.

Hunt Hogs Near Old Homesteads

One of the best places to look for wild hogs is around an abandoned homestead. Pigs like these sites because they often contain abandoned orchards, overgrown gardens with wild-growing vegetables, and are located close to open meadows or overgrown pasture that offer a range of other food sources.

Mule Deer Hunting Tips | USA Hunters

Mule Deer Hunting

The best time to glass for mule deer hunting is as the sun first appears early in the morning.  The low-angle light causes the hair on their coats and light-colored rumps to glow, and will also gleam on the tines of a big buck’s antlers. Low- angled evening light is also good for locating mule deer, but glassing in the late afternoon leaves you little time to stalk within range before the sun goes down.

Mule Deer Hunting

Read more Hunting Tips

Glass Your Route Before You Stalk

Spotting mule deer is perhaps the easiest part of spot-and-stalk hunting. The stalk is just as important and much more physically demanding. If you spot a bedded sure that you’re familiar with the route you’re planning to take to get there. The best way to do this is to glass it thoroughly before packing up and moving out. Pick out landmarks you ’ll be able to identify (look for ones that can be recognized from multiple angles) and make sure to remember where they are in relation to where the animal is bedded down. Start your stalk once you’ve established a clear mental picture of the path you think will put you in a downwind location with a clear shot at the buck.

Meandering Tracks Mean Beds Are Close

If a mule deer is traveling from a food source to bedding cover its trail will generally lead to a straight line (taking terrain into account). But as the animal approaches its bedding site it often starts to meander through the cover, nibbling on twigs and looking for a spot to lie down. If you’re tracking a muley and see its trail start to wonder, turn around and backtrack for a few hundred yards, then climb above where you think the animal has bedded down so that you can approach from a higher elevation. You’ll get closer to the deer and will have a better shot at the animal if you spook it.

Don’t Shoot Deer You Can’t Reach

One of the worst mistakes a mule deer hunter can make is shooting a buck on the other side of a ravine or canyon without knowing whether it’s possible to retrieve the animal.  Vertical cliffs, deep rivers, and maze-like canyons are difficult obstacles to negotiate, and some are impossible to cross. Make sure you know the terrain you’re hunting before you take a shot like this.

Mule Deer Prefer Sagebrush

If you’re hunting in unfamiliar territory, one of the best places to look for muleys is in thick patches of sagebrush. Mule deer seem to prefer this plant throughout their range. Pay special attention to patches you find in places where sagebrush is relatively rare; the plant will act like a magnet for muleys in the area.

Get In A Mule Deer’s Zone

According to Dennis Wintch, mule deer editor for Hunting Illustrated magazine, most mule deer habitat can be broken up into three distinct zones: a high zone (8,000 to 12,000 feet), a middle zone (5,000 to 8,000 feet), and a low zone (1,000 to 5,000 feet).  Mule deer cycle through these zones depending on weather, hunting pressure,  and food availability.  The trick is to figure out which zone they currently inhabit. If you’re hunting in a new area, look for fresh tracks and follow them until you’re confident you know which level the deer are currently using.

Mule Deer Hunting Tips
Mule Deer’s Zone

Getting The Range Right Under The Big Sky

The most difficult adjustment easterners make when hunting the West for the first time is adjusting to the scale of the thing. Deer tend to be significantly larger than what East Coasters are used to. Elk is 5 or 6 times better. Guesstimating ranges is a real crap shoot. Better depend on a rangefinder when hunting the wide-open spaces.

Catch Bucks Seeking Shade In The Middle Of The Day

While the most productive times to glass for mule deer will be during first hours of the morning and the last hours of the day, you can still spot deer moving during the middle of the day if you know where to look.  Bucks will often change bedding sites during the middle of the day as shade shifts with the sun’s movement, sometimes browsing for a few minutes before they lay down again. You’ll be most likely to catch this movement if you’re already glassing cover for bedded deer. Look under trees and around brush for anything that seems out of place with its surroundings. When a buck stands up you’ll be focused in the right place.

Tag Team A Spot-And-Stalk

One of the best ways to stalk within range of a bedded mule deer is to leave a hunting partner behind at the place you first spotted the animal. Your partner can then use hand signals to guide you as you sneak into shooting range. He’ll need to far enough away from the bedded deer to not startle it when moving his hands, so bring a pair of binoculars and use them to check on him for instructions at regular intervals.

Let The Wind Settle Into One Direction

Wind currents can be fickle before the sun rises, so it’s a good idea to wait until later in the morning before planning a stalk on a buck you’ve spotted. In most open-country habitat, the wind will usually settle as the air heats up, blowing in a consistent direction that makes staying downwind of your target much simpler.

Don’t Let Your Bow Keep You From Creeping On Your Stomach

Creeping to within shooting range of an open-country mule deer is one of the most difficult and exciting challenges in all of the bow hunting, especially when there ’s only an open stretch of tall grass between you and the buck you’re stalking. To close with your target in such terrain you’ll need to inch forward on your stomach,  keeping your head down and using only your elbows to pull yourself forward. But it can be difficult to remain silent when you’re carrying a bulky, awkward bow in your hands. You can keep your arms moving freely by placing the bow on your back. When you’re close enough to shoot, simply slide the bow into your hands, knock an arrow, sit up on your knees, and shoot quickly.

Glass For Bucks In Comfort

It is very important that you situate yourself comfortably when glassing for mule deer. Choose a place to sit that has a solid back support, such as a big rock or a stump,  and bring foam pad, or, if you can spare the weight,  a small,  folding tripod stool to keep your butt off cold, hard ground. You should also invest in a tripod with adjustable legs for your binoculars and/or spotting scope, which will reduce the strain on your arms. Never spot for deer with your rifle scope; you’ll end up pointing the muzzle of your gun at targets you do not want to shoot.

Stalk When The Wind Blows Strongly

If you spot a buck bedded in grassy, open terrain, wait to stalk it until the middle of the day, when the wind usually blows steadiest and strongest. The strong wind will wave grass, leaves, and branches back and forth, and you can use these natural movements to camouflage your progress into shooting position. Wear a ghillie suit for further protection from a mule deer’s sharp eyes; the loose strips of fabric attached to the suit will move with the wind, making you look that much more like a part of the landscape.

Use The Right Binocular/Spotting Scope Combination

Large,  11×80  or  20×80 binoculars of the type designed for stargazers make excellent mule deer spotting tools because they gather a great deal of light, giving you an excellent picture during the twilight hours, which is when most muleys will be moving. But if you’re hiking long distances to reach your hunting areas, you won’t want to carry such heavy glass. A good compromise is to use a smaller pair of 10×50 binoculars and also bring a small, 20- or 25-power spotting scope. The combined weight of both these optics will be less than the weight of the larger binoculars, and you can break the weight up by storing your scope in your pack as you hike. Use the binoculars to spot movement at long range, and then use the scope to get a closer look at whatever caught your attention.

Be Prepared To Hike Long Distances

Always wear a daypack when you hunt mule deer. You often have to cover long distances to find them in the open country they live in, and you don’t want to get stuck far from your truck without the proper equipment when the weather changes suddenly, as it often does in the mountains. Make sure your pack fits well and is roomy enough to carry a change of clothes, rain gear, a good knife, rope, binoculars, a compass, a survival kit, and extra food and water. Bring your pack even when you think you’ll be hunting close to your camp or your vehicle; you never know when a fresh track might take you deep into the backcountry.

Locate Clear-Cuts To Find Feeding Mule Deer

One of the best places to hunt mule deer in evergreen forest habitat is a recently logged clear-cut. Deer-friendly shrubs and plants grow rapidly in these clearings as their roots penetrate the disturbed soil and their leaves soak up sunlight normally blocked by large trees. You may have to walk a few miles to reach such clear-cuts, as most logging roads on public lands will be closed to public vehicle traffic, but with unpressured, top-notch feeding habitat as your reward, the hike will be worth the effort. Contact your local BLM or Forest Service office to get information on where these cuts have taken place (you want cuts that are 10 years old or younger), and plan your hunt accordingly.

Use Thermal Currents When Stalking Bedded Bucks

Early morning air that has been cooling all night tends to flow downhill; later in the morning, as this air heats up in the light of the sun, it will reverse direction. These uphill/downhill flows are called thermal currents, and they are important to remember when stalking hot-weather bucks. If you’re glassing a clearing for feeding deer at first light, make sure you’re positioned so that no downhill currents will carry you’re sent to the animals. Later, as the deer move uphill to bed, plan your stalk so that you approach them from above.

Look For Bucks In Edge Cover On The North Sides Of Ridges

A great place to look when you’re spotting for bedded mule deer is edge cover (thick brush lining clearings or other openings in which deer can remain concealed while still enjoying a good view of their surroundings).  Look first along the north sides of ridges, which generally get more shade. Since deer here will already be bedded down, try to pick out pieces of the animals. Ear flicks, hind-leg scratches, and antler-glints may be the only clues you’ll have to find the buck you’re hunting.

See And Be Seen

When glassing for mule deer, keep in mind that if you’re sitting in a place with a 360-degree view of the surrounding terrain, deer on all sides will have a good view of you, as well. Make sure to hide your silhouette by sitting on a rock, some brush, or a stump at your back.

Follow The Farthest Track

When you are thinking about Mule Deer Hunting, remember mule deer are very alert to the sounds and smells of animals following their back trails and will spook easily if they see you before you see them. To make sure you get the drop on an animal you ’re tracking, avoid looking too closely at its individual prints. Instead, keep track of the overall trail by picking out the furthest clear track you can see, then still-hunting up to it, keeping your eyes peeled for movement in the distance. Repeat until you find your target.

Amazing White-Tailed Deer Hunting Tips

White-Tailed-Deer-1024x731-1

Field & Stream specialists expose deer hunting tips that educate you the secrets on how to hunt deer similar to the best of them. Following these guidelines can assist you to have a more successful hunting season. Become a specialist deer hunter today. Read these deer hunting tips on how to get a large deer this year.

White-Tailed Deer

TIPS 1: Don’t Shoot Bucks That Look Insecure

When you first notice a buck, take a moment to make sure its attitude. Dominant bucks hold their heads high and walk loosely with their tails held straight out. A subordinate buck walks with stiff legs and a hunched back and keeps its tail between its legs.  If you see a good buck in a subordinate posture, consider holding your shot. It could mean there’s a real monster in the area.

TIPS 2: Find Small Bucks Near Big Scrapes

If you’re looking to shoot a buck quickly during the rut and aren’t much concerned about the size of its antlers, look for a large scrape that’s torn up, irregularly shaped, and looks like it ’s being used by more than one deer. Younger, more submissive bucks frequent such scrapes. Since these bucks are less wary and more numerous than trophy animals, you’ll stand a good chance of filling your tag faster than you would when hunting scrapes made by solitary deer.

TIPS 3: The Surefire Spot For Big Bucks

Don’t give up on a hunting spot when you learn a big whitetail has been taken there. If it was a dominant buck, a host of suitors for this vacated territory will soon move in. The sudden void may dramatically increase other bucks’ activity. If you can hunt where another hunter has already bagged a big buck, do it!

TIPS 4: See More Deer By Scanning An Area Twice

Immediately after stopping at a vantage point, allow your eyes to relax and move them slowly back and forth over the surrounding terrain without focusing on any specific feature. Relaxed eyes automatically focus on any movement within their field of vision. If no deer are moving in your immediate vicinity, shift to a tightly focused analysis of every piece of cover you can see.  Peer into the shadows, looking for pieces of deer—bits of antler, the curve of an ear, or the horizontal line of a back. Move to your next vantage point once you’re satisfied that you’ve probed all the places a deer might be hiding.

TIPS 5: Don’t Use Too Much Freshly Collected Scent

If you plan to use scent collected from the glands of a freshly-killed deer, make sure to use less of it than you would of the bottled stuff. The fresh gland scent will be much more potent than what you can buy commercially.

TIPS 6: Three Steps To Proper Still-Hunting

Proper still-hunting can be described as a three-step process. Step one is to stand motionless behind an object that will break up your outline while searching the surrounding area thoroughly for any sign that deer is present. Step two is to remain still and use your eyes to pick out a way forward that lets you place your feet on the quietest ground cover possible, such as bare rock, moss, wet leaves, or soft snow. Step three is to scan the woods for deer one more time, then slowly and silently navigate the route you’ve picked out. Repeat steps one through three until you find your buck. Do not rush. A good still-hunter will sometimes take an hour to traverse 100 yards of heavy cover.

TIPS 7: Catch Wary Peak-season Bucks Off Guard During Lunch

Because of increased pressure during the rut, mature bucks will often change their patterns to avoid hunter activity. Many will become nocturnal, but a significant number instead spend more time searching for does during the middle of the day, when most hunters are back at camp taking naps and eating lunch. Try sitting your stand during the hours before an afternoon to catch these deer off guard.

TIPS 8: Use Different Routes To Your Deer Stand At Sunrise & Sunset

Never walk through a crop field in the early morning when approaching a deer stand set up near its edge. Deer are likely feeding in this field under cover of darkness—you will startle them if you don’t take a back route to your stand. The opposite is true when you’re approaching the same stand during the afternoon or evening hours.  Deer are likely bedded in the cover you used to hide your approach in the morning, waiting for the sun to go down before moving out to feed. You should approach your stand through the field at this time of the day.

TIPS 9: Guess a Deer’s Sex by Analyzing Its Gait

You can tell buck tracks from doe tracks more easily when tracking deer through the snow. Does place their feet with precision; bucks sway from side to side while walking, a rolling gait that often leaves drag marks in powder. Longer drag marks may mean you’ve found the trail of an older or heavier buck.

TIPS 10: Hunt Near Food Sources When The Barometer Starts Dropping

White-tailed deer feed heavily in the days and hours leading up to the arrival of violent low-pressure systems. Watch your barometer. When the pressure starts dropping, head to the edges of crop fields and alfalfa meadows, or to stands of mature oak where the ground is covered with acorns. As the front gets closer, start hunting from stands set up along trails that lead from these food sources to heavy cover where you know deer go to hunker down during nasty weather.

TIPS 11: Flush Big Bucks From Beneath Downed Trees

When still-hunting through the mature forest during hot weather, keep your eyes peeled for large trees that have been uprooted recently by storms. The maze of shade and cover offered by the fallen limbs and branches provides one of the best hiding places in the forest, and big bucks will often bed down deep within their embrace to escape the heat of the day. Experienced animals feel very secure in such cover and may not flush unless you get extremely close to them. Approach every such tree you can find.

TIPS 12: Don’t Get Too Hot to Sit Still In Cold Weather

When hiking out to your tree stand in cold weather, do not wear all the layers you’ll need to stay warm while sitting still. Doing so will cause you to sweat heavily on the way in, and this sweat will cool quickly once you stop moving, leaving you too chilled to remain quiet for long. Dress lightly and carry your outer layers in a backpack. Pull on warmer clothing only after you’ve climbed up into your stand and sat long enough for your heart rate to slow down.

TIPS 13: Read Rub Lines to Anticipate Buck’s Movements at Different Times Of The Day

Rubs can show you to where, at what time of the day, and in what direction a buck normally travels. When you first find a rub, get down on your knees so that your field of vision is similar to that of the buck that made the rub. Scan for additional rubs in the area—chances are good you’ll find another from thirty to fifty yards away. Repeat this process until you’ve identified a series of rubs, called a rub line. Rub lines often mark the routes a buck uses to travel to and from his preferred feeding and bedding areas. Most rubs in a line will be made on the same side of each tree; this tells you the direction the buck travels when using the route. If the line leads from a feeding area to thick bedding cover, set up a stand nearby and hunt there in the morning. If the line leads away from bedding cover, hunt it in the evening.

TIPS 14: Hunt All Three Phases Of The Rut

A good deer hunter knows that there is not just one rut, but three. The first, called the pre-rut, occurs in early October, when mature, four- and five-year-old does first come into estrus. The second, known as the peak or primary rut, runs from late October to the last week of November and is when the majority of female deer come into heat. The third, called the post-rut or late rut, takes place twenty-eight days after the end of the primary rut, as does that were not bred during October and November come back into estrus. These pre- and post-rut phases do not last long. Look for a sudden explosion of fresh buck sign, and then hunt hard for several days using techniques, such as rattling, that take advantage of the increased aggression triggered by competition for a limited number of willing does.

TIPS 15: Gain Extra Seconds To Shoot When Rattling In A Buck

Bucks will often appear at the most inopportune moments, especially when you’re rattling antlers to call them in. If you spot one while holding a rack in your hands, don’t be afraid to put it down and pick up your gun.  The buck you’ve called will be expecting to see some motion and will be less likely to startle immediately when he sees you, which gives you a few extra moments to shoot him. Using one smooth, unhurried motion picks up your rifle, shoulder it, and fire. Make sure that you do not move too fast or jerk your arms, rifle, or body. Such sudden movements signal your excitement and may alarm the animal.

TIPS 16: Let Blood Color Tell You How Fast To Follow A Wounded Buck

Blood trails don’t just tell you the direction a wounded deer is moving. They can also provide good information about where on its body you shot the animal, and how quickly you should follow its trail. Bright red blood is full of oxygen and often means you’ve hit your deer in the lungs. Deer hit this way don’t go far, so you can pursue them quickly. Dark red or purple blood may indicate a gut shot. If you find such blood, particularly in conjunction with bits of intestinal fat, and there ’s no precipitation forecast that could wash away or obscure the trail, consider giving the animal time to bed down and stiffen up before looking for a follow-up shot.  Gut-shot deer often run long distances if they’re chased immediately after being wounded.

TIPS 17: Tie Back Branches When Hanging Your Tree Stand

While a good pair of pruning shears can be a bow hunter’s best friend, there are many situations in which you should refrain from over clipping.  For example, when setting up your tree stand, it is a good idea to try tying backs any branches that obstruct your view, using a length of rope or wire. This method is quieter than clipping, will cause less damage to the tree you’re using, and the branches can often be more easily positioned behind your stand in order to break up your silhouette.

TIPS 18: Find Deer In Transition Zones

During the end of October and in early November, before the peak of the rut, deer switch from grazing in fields to browsing on twigs, branches, and buds. These foods are most easily found in wide transition zones of thick understory that grow up between mature forests and more open fields and meadows, where the shade cast by tall trees is not deep enough to inhibit the growth of younger saplings. The thick growth also serves as a cover for the animals after leaves have fallen from the branches of more mature timber. Set your stand near deer trails close to rubs or scrapes in these transition zones, and you’ll have a good chance of filling your tag.

TIPS 19: Spot Bucks Down Low

The horizontal line of a whitetail’s back is one of the best things to look for when still-hunting through thick brush. Most lines in the woods are vertical, and while you’ll eyeball a great many fallen logs by keying in on the horizontal lines, you’ll have a better chance of locating a hidden deer this way than you would be looking for a whole animal. Remember, though, that even mature bucks stand only three feet at the shoulder, so don’t raise your eyes any higher than this when scanning the area ahead of you.

TIPS 20: Still-Hunt Uphill In The Early Morning

On calm days when there’s little wind, air will flow downhill as it cools in the evening, and uphill as it heats up during the day. Deer use these currents to keep track of their surroundings. To keep them off your scent, hunt your way uphill in the late evening and early morning hours, and down during the rest of the day.

TIPS 21: Hunt In Three Places At Once

One of the best locations to hunt is the intersection of three different types of vegetation. Look for a field corner bounded by timber on one side and a swamp, slough, or bottomland on the other, and then hang your stand in a tree with a good view of any trails that lead from one to the other.

TIPS 22: Don’t Hang Your Stand Too High In Steep Terrain

While hanging your stand high in a tree will better hide your presence in level terrain, doing so in steep, hilly country may actually put you at eye level with deer working down the ridges you’re hunting. Try lowering your stand to camouflage your silhouette in such conditions. A deer looking downhill will have a more difficult time spotting you against a backdrop of leaf litter than it will spot you against the sky.

TIPS 23: Use Hunting Pressure On Public Land To Your Advantage

If you hunt public land that gets lots of pressure during the prime shotgun or rifle season, you’re going to run into other hunters in the woods. Instead of letting they ruin your hunt, figure out how to use them to your advantage. Set your stand up on trails leading to thick cover near routes you know other hunters are using. Deer will flee to these areas when spooked by all the unusual sights, sounds, and smells in the woods, so you’ll be in a good position to catch them as they sneak through.

TIPS 24: A Basic Rule For Knowing When To Move & When To Sit Still

When you know deer are on the move,  such as in the morning and evening hours, you should sit still in a good stand or other ambush point and wait for the animals to come to you. It is only during conditions in which deer stop moving that you should move to find them.

TIPS 25: Develop A Quiet Stride For Still-Hunting

Maintaining proper balance is the key to walking quietly across the forest floor. A long stride combined with little forward momentum will often leave you tipping to one side or the other, which can force you to place your feet awkwardly as you catch your balance. To reduce the noise you make, learn to take smaller steps, and to place your feet heel or toe first. Shift your weight slowly onto your forward leg while rolling your foot from heel to toe (or toe to heel). When performed properly, this movement—called the rolling compression step—will allow you to feel any twigs, branches, or other objects that might make noise before you place your full weight on them. This lets you shift your weight to your back leg before the object snaps, then place your front foot in a new, less noisy spot.

TIPS 26: Analyze Stomach Contents To Pattern Feeding Behavior

It’s a good idea to examine the stomach contents of a deer you’ve shot. Less- digested food is what the deer ate last; well-digested food was eaten earlier in the day. You can use this information to guess where the deer were feeding in the hours before you killed it, and then apply what you’ve learned toward filling any open tags you or your buddies still have.

TIPS 27: Easy Way To Check The Wind

Save a few of the black neck feathers from your next ruffed grouse—or the lightest feathers you can pick off doves,  pheasants, or quail if they ’re your favorite birds. Hung from a bow limb with a piece of dental floss, a light feather is a great wind direction indicator.

TIPS 28: Don’t Scare Big Bucks Out Of Bedding Sites

If you’ve located a good buck before the season, resist the urge to hunt him in his bedding site. This is almost certain to drive a wary trophy animal out of the area. Instead, hunt the travel zones between his bedding and feeding spots.

TIPS 29: Gauge How Well Your Stand Is Hidden Using Black-and-White Images

A good way to tell if your stand or blind is well concealed is to photograph yourself sitting in it during the exact hours of the day you think you’ll be hunting for it. Use a digital camera, and convert your images from color to black-and-white using the image-processing program on your computer.   Deer are colorblind,  so these black-and-white images will give you a good idea of the patterns,  shapes,  and tones that seem out of place. If you and your stand are easily recognizable, reconfigure its position and make sure that it is not too bright or too dark compared to its surroundings.

TIPS 30: Practice With Your Bow In Hunting Situations

Always practice shooting your bow under the same conditions in which you expect to shoot your deer. You may be able to stick five arrows into a circle the size of your fist at fifty yards when you’re standing on flat ground and wearing a T-shirt, but that won’t help you much if you don’t know how to do the same thing while wearing a heavy jacket. Spend time during the preseason simulating live hunting situations.  Use broadheads rather than field points, wear your hunting clothes and practice shooting from awkward positions and elevated angles.

TIPS 31: Hunt Sleepy Bucks On Beds During A Full Moon

When the moon is full and the sky is clear, white-tailed deer will feed heavily during the evening hours and move less often during the day than they will when the sky stays dark all night. Run drives through heavy cover or still-hunt other likely bedding areas after a well-lit night to increase your chances of filling your tag in such conditions.

TIPS 32: Watch A Feeding Deer’s Tail

Supplying deer forever twitch their tails immediately before raising their heads to look around. If you immediately freeze when you see this motion, you’ll be much less likely to alert the animal to your presence.  Continue your stalk when the animal puts its head back down to feed.

TIPS 33: Look Downhill When Still-Hunting During Bad Weather

The best places to still-hunt during violent weather are found on elevated terrain. Benches crossing the sides of ridges make excellent routes to follow because they give you top-down looks into the kinds of thick cover where deer like to hole up. That extra field of view means you’ll have more shots than you would if you were stalking through the level ground, where the cover you’re hunting will usually obstruct your line of sight.

TIPS 34: Don’t Hang Your Stand Where You Find The Most Sign

Areas chock-full of deer trails, droppings, rubs, and beds are not always the best places to hang your stand. The abundance of sign could mean that the area is being used as a sanctuary—a place where deer congregate before heading out to feed, or where they bed down during the middle of the day. Since deer spend a great deal of time in such places, they become very familiar with them and will be sensitive to unusual sounds, smells, and sights. It can be extremely difficult to camouflage your presence under such conditions.

TIPS 35: Bagging A Lunchtime Buck

Since most whitetail hunters are on their stands at first light, they tend to get restless from midmorning to noon. Many heads back to camp, or their vehicles, seeking a sandwich and a chat with their buddies. That’s when they inadvertently spook whatever deer are around, sending them sneaking away or bolting through the countryside. And that’s exactly when hunters who have stayed on their stands, quiet and alert, reap the rewards of the biggest bucks.

TIPS 36: Use A Stick To Track Wounded Game Over Sandy Soil

Some soil types can absorb both tracks and blood, making trailing wounded deer difficult. If the trail you’re following becomes indistinct, break off a straight stick that’s the same length as the stride of the animal you’re tracking. Place one end of the stick on the last clear track you can identify so that it’s pointing in the direction you think the animal was traveling. Look for new tracks or flecks of blood at the other end.

TIPS 37: Sit Your Stand In The Morning When Hunting Hot Weather

Whitetails are more active than normal during the night when the weather is unseasonably warm and will stay bedded down in the well-shaded cover that’s close to a water source during the heat of the day. They may start moving again as the temperature starts dropping early in the evening, but when it’s really hot the air won’t begin to cool until well after dark. The best time of the day to hunt deer during hot weather is during the first two hours of shooting light in the morning when the air is coolest and you can catch your quarry moving from where they’ve been feeding to where they’ll bed during daylight.

TIPS 38: Any Buck Is A Good Buck!

In my personal opinion, the concept of hunting only trophy deer seems misguided for most hunters. If you get a kick out of it, fine. Have at it. Most hunters, however, simply want to get out to the deer woods with the idea of bringing home a buck, any buck. The bigger the buck, the more thrills we might feel. But in the end, the old deer-hunting bromide is so, so true: You can’t eat horns. My advice is to relax, enjoy your hunting, and stick to the premise that any buck is a good buck.

TIPS 39: Make Your Steps Sound Like A Deer’s To Spook Fewer Bucks

There are some situations in which it is impossible for you to walk silently through the woods. Dry leaves, for example, will crunch loudly no matter how carefully you place your feet. If you find it necessary to cover ground in such conditions (and there are no convenient game trails to follow that offer quieter places to walk), you will get closer to your quarry without spooking it if you learn how to pattern your steps so that they sound like the steps of a deer. Instead of a regular crunch, crunch, crunch, crunch, crunch (the standard human cadence), and randomize the rhythm of your footsteps so that they form an erratic series of steps and pauses.  Step, step, pause. Step. Pause. Wait. Step. Step. Step. Pause. And so on. You’ll be much more likely to surprise bucks within shooting range if you use this pattern.

 

TIPS 40: Don’t Face Your Stand At The Sun

When placing your tree stand, avoid setting it up so that it faces a rising or falling sun. The rays beaming directly into your eyes will make it harder for you to see into shadows during critical low-light hours and will glance off glasses, gun barrels, and reflective items, spooking deer that would otherwise be unlikely to spot you.

Best Tent Buying Guide And Tent Review

Best Tent Buying Guide

Whether you’re planning your camping trip to a campsite or a remote mountain, your tent is your portable home-from-home. It’s your barrier from the elements, wind, rain, snow, hail, and midges! Thinking about doing some research before you buy can be really beneficial. A well-chosen tent will allow you to live and sleep relatively comfortably in almost any environment. Whether you’re hunting or traveling light or setting up a base on a summer campsite, we’ve got the best tent for you! Our helpful tent buying guide will give you the advice you’ll need to head out for a night in the great outdoors this summer!

Best Tent Buying Guide
Hunting Tent

With so many excellent places to camp in the summer, Scotland can really be the gateway to your camping adventures! If you need some inspiration for where to go, make sure you check out our Top Spots for a Camping Weekend. We have such a diverse range of locations and camping styles available across Scotland, and everyone has their own requirements when it comes to finding the perfect tent, whether it’s quick to pitch, offers a large amount of space, or stands up to the wild weather. Camping is for everyone, and with summer holidays from school, the promise of better weather and longer days, what’s stopping you from giving it a try!

Quick Tips On Select Best Tent

What are you using the tent for? If you are camping with your family, you might need a different tent to when you’re off on your adventures on your own. If you’re jumping from place to place, you’ll want something lightweight to carry around in your backpack or something that packs small? If you love going wild and off-the-beaten-track, you’ll need a tent that can withstand rough terrain. Thinking about the tent’s use will determine the tent design and the combination(s) of weight, stability, ease of pitching and space you require.

What storage space might you need? For example, if you have lots of adventure kit, you might well require extra room for all your gear, both internally and on the porch. These factors will determine the design and size of tent you’ll need, and don’t just think about yourself, the others you’re camping with will need space too.

Think Budget! If you plan to use your tent regularly, a trekking or mountain tent will stand up to long-term use and weather conditions better than a basic tent. In the long run, you will save on repair bills and eventually replacement cost if you spend that little bit more to be better equipped for your requirements.

Tent Buying Guide | Which Tent You Should Select

If you’re thinking of getting the family together for your next camping trip, read our list of the Best Family Campsites in Scotland. Ideal for sheltered campsites, family tents are usually bought when having lots of space is the key criteria for a new purchase. These tents may have 2 or more separate sleeping compartments with built-in internal groundsheets for home-from-home comfort. If in this situation and you’re essentially camping out of the car, it means weight and pack size is not the main consideration when choosing the tent.

Trekking tents for wild camping allow you to venture away from sheltered campsites and out into the wilderness. The dimensions of the tent decrease in favor of reduced weight and pack size. Designs are based on a tunnel or geodesic shape, allowing a balance of weight, rigidity and wind resistance. For more information, visit our helpful Wild Camping Guide.

If you want to camp in remote locations or you have all year round camping plans, looking to get a more resilient tent may be required. Mountain tents are designed for rougher weather and extended trips. The design will have a lower profile in the wind, often making use of geodesic designs for stability, rigidity, and ease of pitching. What you need to ask yourself is, “Why am I buying a tent?” If you know you’re looking for something specific, then you’ll be in a much better position to thin down the available options!

Features To Look Out For

With so many different options available for tents, it’s important to look out for key features that you think you might require. Keeping a checklist of things your tent will need will help you to make decisions about what design, weight, style, and function your tent has. We’ve noted some of the key details to look out for when it comes to looking for your next tent.

Flysheet

The flysheet is the protective outer layer of the tent that keeps out the elements. A tent’s flysheet can be made of a number of materials, with nylon (for performance) and polyester (for lower level use) being the most popular. For all weather protection, flysheets tend to be coated with a waterproof layer such as PU (polyurethane) or silicone elastomer to help shed water. Even though a silicone elastomer treatment will increase the rate of a tent, it will also keep the flysheet better and increase the lifetime of the tent. Most tent flysheets have taped seams, giving full waterproof protection.

Inner Tent Structure

The inner section of a tent can be made from any number of materials, depending on budget, climate and intended use. Some are made using a large proportion of mesh for maximum breathability and minimum weight when traveling in hot conditions. Others are made from nylon or polyester for maximum durability and protection for use in colder or more extreme conditions. All inners are designed to allow air flow so that condensation build up is kept to a minimum. Also, the majority of tent inners are made using light colored fabric to allow maximum light into the tent.

Poles

The difference between poles can have a huge bearing on the cost, stability, weight, and durability of a tent. Basic tents often use fiberglass poles that are cheaper to manufacture and are suitable for use in milder, low-level conditions. They can break under strain such as strong winds and rugged terrain but are generally easy and cheap to replace. All-performance tents use Aluminium poles which are much stronger and generally lighter than fiberglass poles but this also means they are more expensive to produce. There are also a lot of different grades and width of the Aluminium pole, each specifically considered to give the best mixture of lightness, strength, and value for money depending on the design and intended use of the tent.

Groundsheets

The material used will have a large influence on the total weight and durability of the tent. With some trekking and mountain tents, use a footprint to increase groundsheet cover can increase performance. Most low-cost family tents have integrated groundsheets to make them easier to set up.

5 Best Tents For Hunters

By a short survey, we selected 5 best tents. You may take a look.

  • Coleman Sundome 4 Person Tent.
  • Kodiak Canvas Flex-Bow 4-Person Canvas Tent.
  • Trek Tents 245C Cotton Canvas Cabin Tent.
  • DANCHEL 4-Season Cotton Bell Tents.
  • Browning Camping Big Horn Family/Hunting Tent.

Coleman Sundome 4 Person Tent

[amazon_link asins=’B002FGTOHW’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’29db9b39-6668-11e8-9b0a-537d36ef10fb’]The declared capacity of this tent is 4 people. Its dimensions are 9 x 7 ft (274 x 213 cm), so this is surely enough to put 4 standards (but narrow) sleeping pads on the floor and 4 people can stay there overnight.

But accept in mind that you will not have space for gear and you do not have an entrance. So ideally this is a tent for 2 – 3 people.

However, as we said, it has space for 4 users, and it is also light enough, 9.7 lb (4.4 kg) so that such 4 users can carry it for some shorter overnight or weekend hiking or mountaineering yours. But we observe it more as a regular camping tent.

Note also that its packed size 60.5 x 16.5 cm is really impressive, so it can be carried in various ways, and it can be transported on a bicycle, on a motorbike, in a kayak, car, etc. So this is a flexible tent in the true sense.

Its price tag is simply unbelievable, so this is a tool for people who do not want to spend much or who need a tent for occasional use only.

If you are in any of these groups, look no further, there is nothing more affordable on the market.

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Kodiak Canvas Flex-Bow 4-Person Canvas Tent

[amazon_link asins=’B002QZUOTE’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’736bb37d-6668-11e8-8c42-fbdac1f15b39′]The Kodiak Canvas Flex-Bow 4-Person Canvas Tent features a rugged 100% cotton duck canvas that can withstand the harshest conditions without failure. This unit contains added safety from the moisture by incorporating Hydra-Shield technology making this unit both breathable and water-resistant.

This text provides you with a 6’1″ top limit, making it very comfortable to move around in. Dual D-shaped doors provide you easy access and loading to your tent. The size of this tent is 9×8 feet. When fully packed you have a 24×13 inches backpack. This is very easy to manage as you traverse the wild. This unit is planned to be portable with the whole pack, including 6lbs of stakes, weighing in at just 54.5lbs.

Another awesome feature this unit incorporates is the use of No-See-Um Mesh. This allows you to enjoy your privacy without having to close your mesh windows. This is a great feature and it takes away the typical problem of the mesh being to see-thru. It also allows this tent to feature four large windows to give you the ultimate ventilation while in the wild. On a burning summer night, this feature added ventilation creates a massive difference in your comfort stages. There are also two additional Funnel-Flow vents that are perfect for when the rains hit your campsite. You can stay comfy regardless of the weather in this tent.

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Trek Tents 245C Cotton Canvas Cabin Tent

[amazon_link asins=’B00KWX82OG’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’877873d6-6668-11e8-aa61-9d74f3dad014′]Trek Tents 245C Cotton Canvas Cabin Tent can withstand harsh rains thanks to its heavy-duty vinyl coated canvas floor and 100% cotton walls and roof. This unit gives you extreme breathability without sacrificing any durability. The additional wide floor is considered to survive years of foot traffic without tearing or ripping, so you can set your tent on rough land without worry. This is a large tent measuring 9′ x 12′ at the base.

Getting in and out of your tent is made easier by the use of extra-wide double doors. This helps with loading and unloading as well. Three extra large screen windows let the air in while keeping the pests out. This unit utilizes a heavy-duty mesh that is puncture resistant and includes zip rain flaps that can be closed to provide additional privacy. This is a good quality that lets you obtain more utilize from your tent.

This unit features a rugged 1″ powder coated steel frame with chain-linked poles that can hold the weight of the tent plus additional hanging lights and such. There is a bounty of room for people and gear and there is flat interior sewn in pockets to assist keep you prepared while out in the wilderness. The set-up of this unit is easy and can be completed in around 10 minutes. Once put up this element has a no-sag look that includes the strong feeling this canvas tent possess.

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DANCHEL 4 Season Cotton Bell Tents

[amazon_link asins=’B01D2RHL68′ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’999523f9-6668-11e8-a611-5fd115d61a90′]The DANCHEL 4 Season Cotton Bell Tent is finished with 100% cotton fabric that has been particularly layered with a moisture resistant material that locks out the rain and dew. This tent comes in a fashionable khaki color that helps it to blend into a wide variety of outdoor scenarios.

The Danchel 4 Season Cotton Bell hunting tent gives you a large angle of view to review your surroundings with ease. There are 4 windows and the bottom of the tent can be rolled up to give you a full 360% view of the area around your tent. There is also a big entrance that comes in helpful when you are packing and unpacking this unit. This is an awesome feature that lets you get back to hunting quicker.

This hunting tent is planned to resist harsh weather with rain and snow without breakdown. The cotton canvas permits your tent to breath in the summer and keeps the temperature in the winter. There is also a stove jacket that can give you the option to cook and stay warm during the winter months without leaving the comfort of your tent.

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Browning Camping Big Horn Family/Hunting Tent

[amazon_link asins=’B00BPZCIL8′ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’b1fb53a3-6668-11e8-93e6-5db4d94d1b7a’]The Browning Camping Big Horn Family/Hunting Tent features lightweight fiberglass poles and steel uprights that provide your tent with excellent support even when the winds start to kick up and the blowhard. This unit is designed with your comfort in mind. This is evident by the extra tall center. There are also directly sidewalls that assist to provide you a roomier feeling when inside of your tent. It can also give you more room to stack or hang your gear.

There are two big access doors that can be used to load and unload this unit with ease. This unit features a dual-room design, each with its own entrance. These doors also feature large mesh zipper windows that can be opened to improve air circulation. This is also for ventilation out your tent and getting the fresh wind inside.

A gear loft and mesh storage pockets help to keep you well organized while you enjoy hunting or camping trip. These pockets are great for keeping your most essential stuff and little electronics that you may not want on the floor of your tent.

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Tent Maintenance

If you want to make the most of your camping adventures and prolong the lifespan of your tent, looking after it well and planning some maintenance is worth thinking about. When planning your next trip, you should also be thinking about factoring in some time beforehand to get your gear ready for the elements. Before setting off on a camping trip, it is important to know how to pitch your tent. There is nothing worse than trying to pitch an unfamiliar tent when it is cold, wet and windy! If you are taking your new tent, practice pitching it at low level before you set off. It is also a good idea to make sure you have all tent components (pegs, guy lines etc.) and they are in good working order.

Tent Care And Maintenance
Tent Care And Maintenance

When you have reached your destination, prepare the ground before taking the tent out. Remove any small rocks or sharp pieces of wood and make sure the ground is relatively flat and even. By making positive your tent is pitched strongly you can avoid any troubles with loose pegs and guy lines during the night. Always try and pitch your tent with the back to the wind or where it will catch the least wind. Make use of natural features to shield your tent from the weather and be prepared to re-pitch if the first choice isn’t working out for you. Remember the weather can change very quickly and damage a poorly pitched tent.

Hang or pitch your tent in a dry and cool area after returning from a tour, even if it has not been wet, to decrease the possibility of mildew forming. Clean all pegs and ensure all poles are undamaged. When completely dry, fold and store in its bag ready for your next adventure. Reproofing your flysheet is an excellent system to extend the waterproof life of your tent as well as defending the material from the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Ultraviolet rays will eventually break down the fabric on any tent but with proper care, you will extend the life of your tent considerably.

Tent MaintenanceIf you want to reproof your tent, pitch your tent outdoors, in a sheltered area, ensuring all panels are taut. Clean the flysheet with water using a hose or sponge to remove any grit or dirt. Once the tent is dry, apply a tent specific waterproofing product such as Granger’s Fabsil Gold UV or Nikwax Tent & Gear Solar Proof using a clean paintbrush. Leave the tent pitched until the flysheet is completely dry & repeats this once a year to ensure your flysheet lasts as long as possible.

If you’ve noticed some damage since your last time out, it might be worth looking at whether you should be repairing or replacing. For repairing small tears and holes, we’d recommend taking a look at the tent manufacturer’s website to see if they suggest any ways to repair your item. For major repairs, from replacing eyelets to fixing panels and zips, Tiso work with a number of authorized tent repair centers. We can also replace poles and pole sections for most tents. See our Customer Services & Repair Guide.

Last Word

No matter where you’re heading this summer, share your nights in the great outdoors with us, by sharing your photos and stories with Hunting Guide on social media. Ask our staff in store and online if you’re looking for more advice to get you geared up for your next camping adventure! If you’ve liked the inspiration on this blog, remember to check out our other posts!

Best Axes | 16 Awesome Axes, Tomahawks, and Hatchets | Hunting Guide

Best Axes Review

For thousands of years, the world was built from wood. One stick at a time, huts and homes rose from the dirt, hammered together by craftsman versed and skilled in the art of woodworking. Odds are good, whatever catastrophe befalls you, it will happen in the presence of a source of wood. Elements of that source will be your salvation as long as you have the right tools for the job. You can baton a piece of wood with a knife, basically pounding the spine with another stick to hammer the blade through the wood. Though some knives are especially good at this trick, it isn’t a very efficient way of splitting wood for the fire. Axes and hatchets, on the other hand, are purpose-built for this activity.

Best Axes Review

Nowadays it’s essential for a hunter to have an axe. Not just because it’s an important tool, but also because you’re going to be surprised by lots of jobs become easier when an axe with you. Here hunting guide with 16 best axes detail.

16 BEST AXEs, TOMAHAWKS, AND HATCHETS

1. Gerber Sport Axe II

[amazon_link asins=’B00KCY7W1O’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’ba723316-6685-11e8-9846-f5267af11144′]At 14 inches, the Sport Axe II is a great one-handed axe designed to last a long time in rugged environments. The forged steel head is integrated into the fiberglass handle so it will never come loose.

At nearly 1.4 pounds, it is light, and the 2.66-inch blade is coated to make it easier to slice through wood without getting stuck. There is a large hole in the end knob of the handle for a lanyard or to hang it up. The green handle and sheath will certainly help in not losing it.

PROS

  • Durable.
  • New handle style is comfy.
  • Good steel.
  • Hammer on back.

CONS

  • Saw in handle not super secure in some models.

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2. Schrade Survival Hatchet

[amazon_link asins=’B00I1XP04E’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’356eba95-6686-11e8-b1d6-373c15be091f’]The 4.2-inch 3Cr13 stainless steel blade is titanium coated with an integrated fiberglass handle. It is 11.75 inches overall and weighs just shy of 1.5 pounds.

A slight curve in the handle creates an ergonomic balance. The butt has a textured hammerhead for striking, while inside the handle on the knob end neatly hides a 2.5-inch Ferro rod.

The form-fitted, wrap-around sheath is made of plastic. Overall this is a great hatchet for survival.

PROS

  • Sharpened out of the box.
  • Long handle.
  • Stainless steel head.
  • Comes with sharpening disc.

CONS

  • Not sufficient grip coating on the handle for both hands.

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3. Schrade Tactical Hatchet

[amazon_link asins=’B00I1XLVMO’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’8e834bd3-6686-11e8-a5c3-75283325ac5c’]This full-tang tactical hatchet is almost 13 inches long and just over 1.5 pounds. The 3.1-inch blade is made from powder coated SK5 carbon stainless steel and features a pry bar on the end knob and a 2-inch spike opposite the blade.

The grips are glass filled nylon fiber ergonomically shaped to well fit your hand, and the thumb ramp is well shaped and comfortable.

The sheath is ballistics nylon with button snaps to accommodate a belt. The hatchet features various holes to handle tie-downs and lanyards.

PROS

  • Sharp out of the box.

CONS

  • A bit short.

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4. SOG Survival Hawk

[amazon_link asins=’B00T3QBWAE’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’bd34b9d4-6686-11e8-9fa0-a15b0d589b65′]Similar in features to SOG’s Fast hawk, the Survival Hawk’s blade is a little longer, at 3 inches, and there are a few more features, such as a double-sided sharpened point on the bottom of the blade.

The glass-reinforced nylon handle is wrapped in paracord and inside is kept a slightly thinner 2-inch Ferro rod. The spike end of the head features a nail puller and a fuller grove on either side as well as three fuller grooves on the head’s cheeks.

There are two lines of jumping along the upper portion of the handle for detail work. The sheath is ballistic nylon.

PROS

  • Comes with a fire Steel.
  • Well balanced.

CONS

  • A tad light for big chopping task.
  • Steel could be a touch harder.

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5. Tops Wolf PAX 2

[amazon_link asins=’B00NWOASPS’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’eced0fd0-6686-11e8-a375-0107a49c344e’]The Wolf Pup is one of Tops Knives’s most popular knives, so they decided to add it to its new field axe and call it the Wolf PAX 2. It features an interesting integration of the two tools mated together via the friction grip sheath.

The hand axe was made to carry on your belt or your pack. Made of 1095 high carbon steel, the blade measures 3 inches and the canvas Micarta handle measures 5 inches.

The full-tang is 0.25-inches thick from butt to pommel, and the bottom of the blade is also sharpened for use as a secondary edge. The sheath is Kydex plastic.

PROS

  • Good to handle.
  • Thick from butt to pommel.

CONS

  • Little small.

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6. SOG Fasthawk Satin

[amazon_link asins=’B0073H2NRQ’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’18fa12dc-6687-11e8-b6d8-f74282cd6db5′]Lighter and agiler than other tactical ‘hawks, the Fasthawk is made from 420 stainless steel with a polished satin finish. It is mounted on a ballistic plastic (glass reinforced nylon) handle with two star-pattern bolts and then wrapped with a steel ferrule to maintain integrity.

There is a checkered steel area on the blade cheek that can be used as a hammer, and the 2-inch spike opposite the 2-inch straight blade is a formidable weapon.

At just over a foot long and over 1 pound it is a light addition to any pack. Also comes in full black.

PROS

  • Sturdy & sharp.
  • Lightweight quality built.

CONS

  • Slick handle included a sheath.

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7. Camillus Sin

[amazon_link asins=’B01M0DYIC3′ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’33f14cb2-6687-11e8-88b8-93dbfbe5102b’]With 18.5 feet of 550 paracords providing a sure grip, this 15-inch tomahawk is easy to carry, especially with two bands of exaggerated jimping on the upper portion of the handle.

The nearly 8-inch head (from blade to spike) is reinforced with attached plates to ensure strength, while the tang is embedded at least 5 inches into the glass filled nylon handle.

It comes with a ballistic nylon sheath a good safety.

PROS

  • Stainless steel border and titanium bonding.
  • Ballistic nylon sheath.
  • Sturdy glass-filled handle.
  • 550lb camouflage paracord wrap.

CONS

  • Sheath design is not so good.
  • Poor quality.

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8. Camillus Ravenous

[amazon_link asins=’B00NWOFWNG’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’6086b921-6687-11e8-8177-27cc1a688fa9′]This 13.5-inch tactical hatchet is made from titanium, attached to the glass filled nylon handle via four-star screws, ensuring the head won’t easily detach from the handle.

The 2.75-inch cutting edge has a rounded radius from the centerline of the face, giving the hatchet an even striking surface. Opposite the blade is a formidable 2-inch spike.

The handle has a diamond grip molded into it and a hole for a lanyard. The sheath is ballistic nylon with button closures.

PROS

  • Lightweight.
  • Sheath with ballistic nylon.

CONS

  • Care with grip.

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9. UST ParaHatchet Pro

[amazon_link asins=’B075F844GB’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’8265d5fb-6687-11e8-be58-0315f3f369b0′]Small and compact, this simple hatchet is made of stainless steel, featuring a black oxide finish. The 4-inch blade is large in relation to the hatchet’s size of only 9.5 inches long.

The handle is wrapped in 8 feet of paracord with an addition 1.6 feet in the lanyard. It weighs only 9.8 ounces and has sockets for three popular bolt sizes. On the butt end of the head is a rope cutter.

In the wrap-around nylon sheath includes a Ferro rod for fire starting. Also comes with “Glo” green paracord.

PROS

  • Self-contained with belt loop, Lightweight, Sta.

CONS

  • Poor quality nylon sheath.

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10. Buck Knives Camp

[amazon_link asins=’B000EHYZSC’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’a0fa0d61-6687-11e8-a750-f976169fcdde’]With a blade length of 3 inches and an overall weight of just 17.2 ounces, Buck Knives’s small and efficient camp axe. Made from “spring steel” (5160 carbon steel), the powder-coated blade head is incorporated into the hollow injection-molded handle to provide a resilient tool.

The molded-plastic sheath fits easily over the blade with a hook and loop closure. The steel butt is great for hammering.

 

PROS

  • Lightweight and compact.
  • Decent hatchet overall.
  • Good quality.

CONS

  • Not razor sharp.
  • Came very dull.

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11. Fiskars X17 Axe

[amazon_link asins=’B0002YTOFG’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’d6194ac4-6687-11e8-82b3-a13d6d4c4db9′]The bigger brother to the X11 (see 16) is almost 24 inches long and shares many of the functions of the X11. It tips the scales at 3.44 pounds (and the blade is ¼-inch longer) but doesn’t feel heavy or out of balance thanks to its hollow fiberglass handle.

The orange portion of the handle is a non-slip coating that will provide a firm grip, even in the rain.

This, as well as, the X11 was designed in Billnäs, Finland, where they have been making forged tools for over 360 years.

PROS

  • Good for the multi-purpose axe.
  • More durable.
  • Razor sharp.

CONS

  • Heavier to use.

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12. CRKT Woods Chogan T-Hawk

[amazon_link asins=’B00I04Q7LO’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’fc727e99-6687-11e8-bd36-07deb77d090f’]Sealed with a lacquer coat, the standout feature of this tomahawk is the handle made from Tennessee hickory, which makes this handle very hard, stiff, dense, and shock resistant.

Designed by Ryan Johnson of RMJ Tactical in Chattanooga, Tenn., the forged 1055 carbon steel is ground flat and given a hammered finish.

The butt is a blunt hammerhead great for general camp work, while the 4.21-inch blade will make Quick work of any firewood or tinder.

PROS

  • Solid notching.
  • Looks old-fashioned.

CONS

  • Long.
  • Head needs regular reseating.

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13. CRKT Kangee T-Hawk

[amazon_link asins=’B00BBOBXD2′ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’32a0462e-6688-11e8-8451-e546b825b5e5′]This tactical tomahawk is made from SK5 carbon steel and sports a full-tang, sandwiched by EDM finished glass filled nylon grips (also comes in black). The nearly 3-inch blade is powder coated and has a flat grid.

The opposite is a spike, but all across the eye of the head is ground sharp as well. The end knob has holes for a lanyard and is good for striking.

The Kydex sheath is a friction closure with a nylon buckle; it has holes for paracord and slots for webbing.

PROS

  • High quality and good design.
  • Sharp edge.
  • Sturdy sheath.

CONS

  • No cons found from buyers.

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14. Fiskars X11

[amazon_link asins=’B000AQLUE4′ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’6a31e3f7-6688-11e8-acf9-7f86fa9df706′]With a hardened forged steel 3-inch blade, the X11 is 17.5 inches long, perfect for one-handed use. The head is permanently molded into the fiberglass hollow handle to ensure that it will never come loose.

The extra wide face disperses wood away from the ax, while the low-friction coating helps prevent the axe from getting stuck. The plastic sheath doubles as a carrying handle.

 

PROS

  • Lifetime warranty on the handle.
  • Razor sharp.

CONS

  • The head bounced off.

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15. Gerber Myth Hatchet

[amazon_link asins=’B00JRXWSEM’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’975cb294-6688-11e8-a84a-9fbbbc0d1fb4′]The Myth hatchet comes with a thick handle compared to its size, so it works surprisingly well for a small hatchet (9.2 inches long).

With a really big choil and major jimping along the upper edge of the handle (not to mention a large finger hole in the face), the hatchet stays firm in your hand in slippery conditions.

It features a lanyard hole, hammering butt, and a plastic sheath that locks.

PROS

  • Good weight and construction.
  • Well Balanced.
  • Molded protective sheath.

CONS

  • Not durable.
  • The belt clip quality is not good.

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16. Gerber Downrange Tomahawk

[amazon_link asins=’B00BBJQYEA’ template=’ProductAd’ store=’hg02jc-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’b5e8105a-6688-11e8-9a41-c9ec6ca510fa’]This is a full-tang ‘hawk with several rugged accessories to make coping with the dangers of reality slightly easier. Lightweight, at just over 2 pounds, it features an inch-wide hammerhead and a slightly angled pry bar. The metal is a 420HC steel with Cerakote (ceramic coating).

Downrange comes with two sheaths, a friction fitted one that covers the blade but leaves an opening for the hammerhead butt and a way to carry it, and a second sheath that cradles the handle protects the pry bar and is MOLLE compatible. The full-tang is flanked by G-10 grips with s deep texture to keep your hand in place.

PROS

  • Good blade cover and grip.

CONS

  • High price.

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LAST WORD

Nothing more today about these best axes, Tomahawks, and Hatchets. You can make your choice from one of those. or you can visit Amazon store.

Search more on Amazon

If I miss anything here, please let me know by comment below.

Ibex Hunting Pro Tips for Hunters

Ibex-Hunting-Alpine-Ibex
Ibex Hunting | Capra Ibex
Capra Ibex

These days’ wild sheep get most of the glory, while their cousins in the goat family seem like second class citizens. It wasn’t always this way. Nearly a century ago, when the Roosevelt expedition penetrated the Tian Shan Mountains in western China, the prize was the long-horned ibex. Argali sheep encountered along the way were considered camp meat. I think we have it wrong today. In central Asia, we drool over the various races of argali sheep Marco Polo, High Altai, Gobi argali, and more and we often overlook the spectacularly horned ibex that inhabit the same ranges. We forget, too, that wild goats almost always inhabit tougher, rougher, and steeper country than wild sheep and so represent, at the least, an equal challenge.

The ibex is a long-horned goat of the Capra genus, meaning it’s a true goat. They occupy a very large range, starting on the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal) and running east to Mongolia, with a branch in North Africa. Across this broad range are several distinct species and numerous subspecies. Distinctions include color, size, and, even, the shape of horns. Some ibex have horns that are triangular in section, while others are more rectangular. With ibex, normally only the males Grow horns; some varieties have distinctly “knobby” front ridges, while others have a smoother keel.

Ibex Hunting | Alpine Ibex
Alpine Ibex

Today, hunters generally consider there to be 15 varieties of ibex: six in Europe, seven in Asia, one (the Walia ibex) confined to Ethiopia, and the Nubian ibex, which ranges from Africa into Southwest Asia. As is often the case, the classifications made by biologists and hunters don’t exactly agree. For instance, based on regional horn configuration and size, we consider there are four distinct ibex in Spain, which is unlikely from a purely scientific standpoint. But as my friend, and much more accomplished mountain hunter, Rex Baker likes to say, “We don’t make the rules; we just hunt the animals.” Following these rules, I have taken 12 varieties of ibex and am unlikely to go further: The Persian desert ibex is confined to Iran, and the Nubian ibex, despite a large range and adequate population, is not currently open to hunting. Of all the different varieties, the Walia Ibex is the only one that is seriously endangered. Its habitat is Ethiopia’s Semien Plateau, but it has not been hunted in living memory.

In general, ibex are mountain animals, but across their broad range, this isn’t always so. The kri-kri or Cretan ibex, now hunted in Greece and Macedonia, is found in Mediterranean hills; the Sindh Ibex is found in desert hills in southwestern Pakistan, and the several Spanish ibex are often found in forested hills rather than true mountains. Most of the time, however, ibex gravitate to the steepest, roughest country they can find. Some of my own most challenging hunts have included the Himalayan ibex in the dizzying heights of northern Pakistan; the mid-Asian ibex in the Tien Shans of eastern Kyrgyzstan; and the Bezoar or Persian Ibex in Turkey’s steep mountains.

Shooting & Shot Placement for Ibex Hunting

All goats are tough, but a 300-pound goat is tougher than a 100-pound goat. Also, like all goats, when threatened or injured, ibex will tend to drive towards the steepest, nastiest escape terrain where recovery can be difficult and dangerous. It is thus important to hit an ibex properly and try to anchor it on the spot. This is not necessarily a matter of raw power, but rather shooting for the shoulder to break heavy bone instead of the “behind the shoulder” lung shot that American hunters tend to prefer. It is also preferable to use a bullet that expands fairly quickly, expending energy and doing damage, rather than use a tough bullet designed for maximum penetration. Although sharp-eyed, ibex are not difficult to stalk if you can get above them, but often steep terrain dictates longer shots. Ideal cartridges start with the fast 6.5mms and run through the .270s and 7mms to the fast .30s. Mount plenty of scopes and make sure you understand your trajectory out to longer ranges just in case.

Natural History

Because of the numerous varieties of ibex, the sizes of bodies and horns are hard to characterize. Largest-bodied, at least in my experience, is the Himalayan ibex, with body weight up to 300 pounds; smallest is definitely the kri-kri, barely 100 pounds soaking wet. All ibex have horns that are very long in relation to body size, but the longest-horned ibex are probably the Bezoar ibex of Turkey and the Mid-Asian ibex, both of which can exceed a spectacular 50 inches in length.

The Ibex is naturally a creature of the Northern Hemisphere, so their lifestyle is fairly consistent across both ranges and species. They are browsers and grazers, so they are able to thrive in more marginal habitat than sheep. Ibex are herd animals, with females (nannies) and males (billies) congregating separately for much of the year. Mating season is generally November and December, and at this time the bachelor groups break up and the males come into the herds to compete for breeding rights. The gestation period is about five and a half months, with one or two kids born in the late spring. Twins are relatively uncommon (as low as 20 percent of births), but even so, ibex are prolific. Given some protection, a herd will increase rapidly. They are also survivors and are much more resistant to domestic livestock disease than sheep. Ibex also live longer and breed longer than sheep. In the wild, a male is considered old at 12 years, but nannies can live up to 19 years.